Tucked in the heart of London’s Seven Dials, Monmouth Kitchen inside the Radisson Blu Hotel, Mercer Street, is the sort of place that quietly surprises you. The kind where polished service meets relaxed charm, and where dishes feel effortless yet intentional, a balance that’s harder to pull off than most realise, and one Monmouth Kitchen do so well.

Monmouth Kitchen, Radisson Blu Mercer Street

From the moment you walk through the doors, there’s an inviting calm. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame Monmouth Street, washing the space with natural light. A mix of marble-topped tables, low warm lighting, and exposed black brick creates a look that’s both modern and grounded; elegant without trying too hard. The front half of the restaurant opens onto a sleek bar, while just beyond, a flicker of flame reveals the wood fire that lends so many of the dishes their signature depth.

The menu begins, for me at least, with a trio of bruschetta: wild mushroom with truffle oil, spinach and soft cheese, and bocconcini with tomato. Each topping is generouslly piled on. The bread itself is perfectly executed, light and fluffy inside, crisp at the edges, and serves as a canvas for fresh, confident flavours. The spinach and soft cheese pairing is a standout: the vibrant green against the sun-dried tomatoes is visually striking, while the salty creaminess of the cheese ties it all together with a drizzle of olive oil that adds just the right touch of gloss and indulgence.

Then there’s the mushroom variation: meaty, garlicky, and fragrant with fresh herbs. It’s simplicity done with care. The bocconcini and tomato, meanwhile, play in perfect harmony, with a sweet-sour balsamic glaze that lifts the fresh salted tomatoes and balances the richness of the cheese. As Executive Chef Eslam Barakat explains, “We’re very passionate about using local and seasonal ingredients. As proud holders of a Green Tourism Silver badge, sustainability is always at the heart of what we do.” That ethos shows. Every bite feels rooted in freshness.

The tacos arrive too. A playful, lighter dish that surprises with its texture. The crisp outer shell holds finely diced vegetables, bright with tomato salsa and sweet pops of corn. A hint of coriander brings earthiness, and the precise knife work (those cubes really are impressively small) gives a refined feel to what could have been a casual dish. These aren’t your traditional tacos, but something more sophisticated. Crunchy, juicy, and undeniably moreish. The menu also offers versions with spicy chicken and rocoto yoghurt, tuna with chilli lemon, and salmon with jalapeño and lemon dressing, should something with a little more heat take your fancy.

Then comes the honey-glazed beef short rib. A star in its own right. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, coated in a sticky glaze that hits the perfect note between sweet and savoury. Each mouthful offers that comforting warmth only slow-cooked beef can deliver, with marbled fat that adds an almost buttery richness. The glaze is finished with sesame seeds for crunch and nuttiness, and a few charred corners lend depth and smoke. “That’s absolutely right,” says Barakat when asked about the honey. “We have our very own beehive, and the honey we use comes directly from there.” It’s a detail that sums up the care behind each dish, homegrown sweetness that brings both story and soul to the plate.

A side of grilled asparagus with lemon and chilli sauce adds brightness. The spears are charred beautifully, the sauce rich yet zesty, buttery yet fresh. It ties the entire course together, lifting the beef and cleansing the palate. The sauce, frankly, could be bottled it’s that good.

But not every note hits perfectly. The fried rice, though well-cooked with each grain distinct and buttery, misses the “fried” element its name promises. It’s a minor misstep, more a matter of semantics than execution. A re wording on the menu would make this a standout again. Simple but done brilliantly just not as advertised.

Dessert leans light and elegant. The Pera Sensación, a white chocolate and vanilla mousse with pistachio sponge, honey ice cream, and pear compote. It’s a beautifully composed finale. Studded with vanilla bean, the mousse is silky and rich yet dissolves delicately on the tongue. The honey ice cream, floral and earthy, nods again to those in-house hives, while the pear compote brings depth and fruitiness. The pistachio sponge adds just enough nuttiness to balance the sweetness. It’s finished with a touch of gold leaf.

To drink, the Lychee & Elderflower Martini is a highlight: Hendrick’s gin with elderflower, violette, lemon and cranberry. It’s floral and fragrant without tipping into sweetness, pairing perfectly with the savoury depth of the meal and adding a refreshing lift between courses.

With just 40 covers, the restaurant strikes an intimate balance, turning tables up to three times an evening yet never feeling hurried. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it transforms effortlessly through the day, bright and airy in the morning, glowing and atmospheric by night with service throughout, being warm and confident. The staff are knowledgeable and attentive without hovering, creating a space that feels as relaxed as it is refined.

Simplicity remains the restaurant’s strong suit. Understated, flavour-led cooking that doesn’t overcomplicate. Here, flavour takes centre stage and I will 100% be going back… very soon.

A Celebration of Simplicity at Monmouth Kitchen, Radisson Blu Mercer Street

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